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Land Rover Discovery Brakes

Like many heavy vehicles used for daily driving, the Land Rover Discovery suffers from regular brake issues. Whether it be frequent brake pad replacement, squeaking brakes and or warped rotors, brakes are an issue for the heavy Land Rover Discovery. Luckily there is a solution to this problem. Heavy duty drilled and slotted brake rotors will increase braking power and brake rotor life, preventing warped rotors from ever happening. Coupled with heavy duty brake pads, your braking problems are over.


Helpful information if you want to save some money and upgrade your brakes yourself.

DIY land rover discovery brakes replacment

Drilled and slotted brake rotors will last a longer than the stock brake rotors that came on the vehicle.

DS Silver

Heavy duty brake pads are necessary for long brake system life and increased stopping power.

Metallic Brake Pads

Make sure you use anti sequel chatter material when you install your new brake pads, if you are having a shop install your brakes, request they use this material. It will improve the overall performance and prevent any braking noises.

crc disc quiet

Happy driving!

Land Rover brakes




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Brakes 101

Brake Tech

How do you judge a vehicle’s performance? Is it the ability to accelerate from 0-60 mph corner at over 1.0g or brake from 60-0 mph? Obviously while acceleration is exciting and cornering is fun…most of the time the ability to stop is most important! Performance isn’t just about speed…it’s about controlling speed. What happens when you step on the brake pedal has a lot of influence on how quickly your vehicle will stop…and may decide whether or not you still have a vehicle.

Blue car

The front brakes do most of the work as the vehicle’s weight pushes forward while stopping. Because of this, most vehicles are equipped with disc brakes on the front axle and drum brakes on the rear (sports cars and many sport coupes and sport sedans are equipped with disc brakes all the way around). A disc brake’s superior overall performance is largely due to its ability to generate friction as the brake calipers force the pads to clamp against the rotors. The brake rotors are cleaned and dried by the brake pads dragging across them and the entire brake system is exposed to the air for excellent cooling. The advantages of rear drum brakes are typically in the areas of lower cost and their ability to easily integrate a mechanical emergency/parking brake system.

When it comes to evaluating brake performance, the friction that brake pads generate against the rotors, the brake pads’ operating temperature range and their ability to resist fade are important. The brake pad material rubbing against the disc brake rotor generates the friction that slows the vehicle. A wide operating temperature range is important for driving enthusiasts so that brakes are effective when cold and resist fade when hot. Brake fade is when brake pads, brake rotors and/or brake fluid are heated so much that they lose some of their ability to slow the vehicle effectively.

Choices Beyond Stock

Glowing Rotor and Caliper

Hawk Performance’s advanced materials take the heat from -30 to 1400° Fahrenheit.

Stock disc brake pads are fine for the average driver. However, the driving enthusiast looking to enhance their car’s brake performance has several other choices. Compared to stock brake pads, the performance brake pads developed by Hawk Performance for “road” and “sport” use (Hawk HPS) generate more friction and work in a broader range of temperatures while reducing the possibility of brake fade at higher temperatures. And if that’s not enough, their high performance brake pads developed for “sport” and “track” use (Hawk HP Plus) continue to work in an even higher range of temperatures and further reduce the possibility of brake fade.

Additionally, performance disc brake pads aren’t just for cars. Commercial fleet trucks and light trucks/SUVs carrying or towing heavy payloads can look at Hawk’s SuperDuty brake pads.

When it comes to brake convenience and comfort, brake dust, noise and wear become the key items. As standard brake pads wear, brake dust is released as the friction material carbonizes at temperatures found in everyday braking. “Road” and “sport” brake pads are formulated to run cleaner because they resist carbonizing until over 1000° Fahrenheit, so in normal street driving, dust is significantly reduced.

Another popular addition to a high performance brake system are sport disc brake rotors that are dimpled, drilled or groovce brake fade by helping evacuate the surface film of gases that are often released during very heavy braking. All brake pads contain some organic (living) materials (like the petro-chemical resins that bind the friction materials together). As these organic materials “overheat,” they revert to gases that may cause the brake pads to lose some of their contact with the rotor, essentially “hydroplaning” away from the rotor on a film of gases.

Note: Sport disc brake rotors will produce some additional noise. It’s not uncommon to hear a whirring noise as the brake pads rub over the dimples, drill holes and grooves while driving. While some noise will remain, its level will become less noticeable as the rotors and pads break in.

Brakes are a Safety Critical Part of a Motor Vehicle

Brake pads and brake rotors are wear items and as such, should be inspected regularly and replaced as necessary. Brake pads should be replaced when approximately 1/8″ to 3/16″” of friction material remains on the steel backing plate. Brake rotors should be replaced when their “Worn Rotor Minimum Thickness” (expressed in millimeters) has reached the prescribed limit engraved on the edge of the brake disc.

Brake pads and brake rotors should be installed by a competent mechanic in a professional manner. Any incorrect installation of brake components can cause a major safety problem or an accident. If you are not a competent and qualified mechanic you should not attempt to install these products, but should take the vehicle to a vehicle dealer or competent automotive mechanic for their installation.

Drivers who participate in track days with “road” and “sport” use brake pads should always take spare pads to the track and may find it desirable to also carry a full vehicle set of “sport” and “track” use pads in case they need to upgrade their brakes to provide longer pad life at the track or accommodate higher brake temperatures.

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Brake Pad & Rotor Bed- In Procedures

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Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004″ (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

“Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly…Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.”

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:


400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.


400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.


In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.


After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.


Follow the brake pad manufacturer’s recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

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How to Install New Brake Pads – By Edmunds

You will be pleasantly surprised to find that you can change your car’s disc brake pads quickly, easily and without specialized tools. Doing it yourself also will save you a lot of money. But even if you’re not interesting in doing this yourself, knowing what’s involved makes it easier to understand what your mechanic may someday tell you.

Nearly all cars these days have front disc brakes. Front brakes usually wear out more quickly than the rear brakes (which could either be disc or drum brakes), so they need to be changed more often. You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you press the brake pedal. But noise alone isn’t always the best indicator, so it’s best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads.

Note: If the front end of the car vibrates when you apply the brakes, your brake rotors may be warped. If the rotors appear grooved or uneven, they may be scored. In either case the rotors may also need to be replaced or “turned” on a brake lathe, a procedure not covered here. You may need a professional’s help for this, but you can see what’s involved in a rotor change by looking here.

Money saved: About $250 for most cars and much more for luxury or performance cars

Time Required: 1 hour

Tools Required

  • Disposable mechanic’s gloves to protect your hands and keep them clean
  • Jack and jack stands
  • Lug wrench
  • C-clamp or length of wood to retract the piston
  • Wrench (choose a socket, open end or adjustable wrench)
  • Turkey baster for drawing out brake fluid
  • Plastic tie, bungee cord or piece of string

Materials Required

  • New brake pads. Since you are saving money by doing this yourself, you might want to consider splurging a bit by buying original manufacturer brake pads, which are more expensive.
  • Can of brake fluid — check your owner’s manual for the proper type.

Here are a couple of things to note before you begin.

Brake Pad

Know your calipers: The majority of cars have a “sliding caliper” brake assembly. That’s what’s shown in the photo above. Compare this brake assembly to the one in your car. Other cars have “fixed caliper” assemblies. The pads in fixed-caliper brakes are also easy to change but the process is slightly different, so we’ll cover it in another instructional piece.

Do one side, then the other: For reasons that will be clear later, you should change the pads on one side of the car from start to finish before doing the other side. Also, since you’re doing one side at a time, turn the steering wheel so that the wheel you’re working on is angled out for better access to the brakes.

Now we can get started.

Brake Pad

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Then jack up the car and place a jack stand under the car’s frame. Lower the jack so its weight rests on the jack stand. Fully remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. You now have access to the brake assembly and can safely reach under the car.

Brake Pad

2. Find the two slider bolts (sometimes called “pins”) that hold the caliper in place. On this car, a 2009 Ford Flex, the bolts are on the inside. The arrows in the photograph above point them out. It’s generally only necessary to remove the lower bolt. It can be long but once it is fully loosened, it will slide out easily.

Brake Pad

3. With the bottom bolt removed, the caliper pivots up, as shown in the photograph above. The rubber hose, which is the hydraulic line, will flex to allow this so do not disconnect any hydraulic lines. If you think you have to disconnect a hydraulic line, you’re doing something wrong. Reassemble the brakes and seek professional help.

At this point, it is very easy to inspect the thickness of the brake pads to confirm that they need to be changed. Most brake pads have metal wear indicators, which are small metal tabs that squeak when they contact the rotors. Even if these are not yet touching, the pads are worn out if the friction material is 1/8th of an inch thick or less at any point.

Brake Pad

4. The brake pads are now exposed and the retaining clips hold them loosely in place. Simply slide the old brake pads out, as shown in the photo.

Brake Pad

In the above photo, you can see a comparison of the new, thicker brake pad (top), next to the old, worn-down brake pad (bottom).

Brake Pad

5. The photo above shows the pad’s new retaining clips. New pads almost always come with new clips, which allow the pads to slide back and forth easily. Use the new ones and chuck the old ones. There are no retaining screws for the clips. They just snap in place. There are usually left-handed and right-handed clips, so change one at a time, making sure they match up exactly as you go.

Brake Pad

Often, a small packet of graphite-based grease will come with the brake pads. Apply this to the clips of the new brake pads to keep them from squeaking, as shown in the photo above.

Brake Pad

This photo shows that the new brake pad has a riveted-on shim, which is the thin metal plate. Some brake pads might have unattached shims that have to be temporarily held in position until you lock the pads in place. The “ears” are the metal tabs on either end of the brake pad (only the two left ears are visible here). These ears fit into the slots in the clips. Some of the grease can be applied to the ears and between any loose metal shims, too.

Brake Pad

6. The new pads slide into place as easily as the old ones did when they came out, though sometimes the new clips will be tighter. The ears of the new pads should slot nicely into place on the grease you applied.

Brake Pad

7. In the photo above, the arrows point to the pistons. These pistons press on the brake pads and squeeze the rotor to stop the car. Your car might only have one piston for each wheel, but the principle is the same. Before you can lower the caliper into place, these pistons need to be retracted (pushed back) so that they will clear the new, thicker brake pads.

Brake Pad

8. Do-it-yourselfers often use a C-clamp to retract the piston or pistons. In this case, we simply levered the piston back using a 2×4 and a piece of plywood. By doing this, the brake fluid in the pistons is being pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir through tiny passages, so the pistons move slowly. The width of the 2×4 allows both pistons to be pushed in at once. If you pushed in one by itself, the other would pop out — you don’t want that. Fortunately, most cars have just one piston per caliper, which makes things far simpler. Either way, steady pressure and patience are key here. In this example, we added a second plywood shim near the end of the process to fill the ever-increasing gap. Throughout, take the utmost care to ensure you don’t nick or tear the rubber boot and seal that encircles the pistons.

Brake Pad

9. When you push the pistons back, the brake fluid level slowly rises. Open the master cylinder reservoir and check it often. This is more of a concern when you work on the second brake, because the combined fluid volume of two calipers could cause the brake fluid to overflow. If it looks like this is going to happen, suck out some of the brake fluid with a turkey baster. There is more danger of overflowing if someone topped off the fluid level during regular service visits. (This is why the brake fluid reservoir shouldn’t necessarily be topped off like that.) The fluid level naturally goes down as the pads wear. And it comes back up when the pads are replaced. As long as the level doesn’t go below “MIN,” the arrow shown in the photo above, on the lower half of the reservoir, everything is cool.

Brake Pad

10. With the pistons retracted, the caliper should slip over the pads with little effort. Sometimes the fit is tight and the caliper will slide on the newly installed brake pads. If the pistons catch on the brake pads, you might need to check that you retracted the piston completely.

Brake Pad

11. Reinstall and retighten the slider bolt. Straighten the car’s wheels, re-mount the tire and tighten the lug nuts.

12. Repeat all these steps for the other side of the front brakes. Remember that the brake fluid will be higher in the reservoir now that new pads are installed on one side, so keep your eye on the fluid level as you retract the piston on the other side. The fluid will only rise further the second time around. You don’t want it to overflow since the brake fluid is highly corrosive. If it looks as if the fluid will overflow, suck some out with the turkey baster. If the level is below the “MAX” when both sides are done, add fresh fluid to top things off to the line.

13. Test-drive the car under safe conditions to make sure everything is working properly, being especially careful for the first few stops. Be aware that your brake pedal might have a higher engagement point. You will quickly get used to this change. Enjoy using your new brakes knowing there are now thick brake pads to stop you safely.

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Hawk Brake Bedding-in Procedure:


  • Step 1:Make 6-10 slow-downs from approximately 30-35 mph to 5 mph. applying moderate pressure. Do not come to a complete stop.
  • Step 2:Make an additional 2 to 3 harder stops from approximately 40-45 mph. to zero.
  • Step 3:DO NOT DRAG THE BRAKES! (after stopping – do not leave your foot on the brake pedal)
  • Step 4:Allow 15 mintutes or more for the brake system to cool down.
  • Step 5:Your new Hawk pads are ready for use.